The satellite phone worked like a charm! It enabled us to give updates to our support crew back home and get the most up to date weather forecasts. So it was no surprise when a storm rolled in on our 4th day of camping. Admiral Kukkonen had ordered that all tents be checked for stability and commanded a full lock down of any loose gear lying around camp. Snow and ice walls were built around the kitchen hole as well as our tents. We used our ice axes as snow stakes to reinforce our gear tent. Ilir even walked around camp with his GPS to lock in the coordinates of our buried garbage bags (so we could retrieve them when leaving) and the outhouse which was tunneled 3 meters down into the glacier about 30 meters west from our camp. The waiting game began.
I've always said that you really get to know someone when you travel with them. Well I now say that you really get to know someone when you've been stuck in a hole with them for three days. As the storm rolled in we took swift advantage of the down time to catch up on ZZZs, read and celebrate Ilir's 27th birthday, not necessarily in that order. Once the booze was finished and we'd plowed through most of our books, the discussions began. Politics, music and lunch food were but some of the many topics we touched on. The most I recall, from the endless banter that took place in the kitchen hole, is that crackers are not a lunch food. That only goes to show the level of cabin fever that was starting to set in and it told me that if I had to do the trip all over again I would be sure to bring more books and loads more crackers.
When we crawled out of our tents on the morning three days after the storm began, we were taken aback to see that the snow was still blowing sideways and that the temperature on Kevin's 50 cent thermometer still read -15°c. Our sources on the ground had told us to expect sunny skies and warmer temperatures so the mood at breakfast was damp to say the least. After hot coffee, tea and oatmeal that tasted like last nights dinner was finished, we forced ourselves back out into the squall to prepare our skis for a tour. There was no way anyone was going to sit around camp another day discussing crackers.
The crew, in it's entirety, set off to explore a zone we hadn't checked out before. We headed over the col, 700m west of our camp, descended and then banked north to a series of cirques that we'd seen on the map. As we neared two of the cirques the skies suddenly opened and the wind dropped almost instantaneously. Unexpectedly we found ourselves looking up at a colossal couloir in full sun that was gagging to be ridden. It was hard to gauge how far the couloir was but it didn't take long to track down two volunteers who were eager to find out.
It was nearly three in the afternoon by the time Ilir and Peter had summited the couloir, eaten a hot lunch and were ready to ski. I had spent the better part of the last two hours skinning and hiking around trying to find a suitable vantage point to shoot the boys...ironically I settled for a position no more than 200m away from the place I'd left them a few hours before. Ilir skied first triggering three little slabs as he made his way down. The snow varied from top to bottom but both Peter and him had huge smiles as they exited the couloir and skinned back to where I had been shooting. Meanwhile Hannu, Laura, Kevin and Late had been scoping lines in the second cirque and skiing a test run to evaluate the fresh snow.
All grouped up again in the second cirque by 5pm we witnessed Laura, Hannu and Latte shred some awesome lines. The day had turned from pure misery into elation. The endorphins were running rampant in all of us from a big day out and the signs were starting to show. Admiral Kukkonnen was hardly bothered by his "nosecicle" that looked like it linked the inner parts of his brain to his mustache...a sight worth seeing. The best bit of it all is that the weather held out and we continued to slay more big lines, including the infamous midnight line that loomed above our camp site, the next day.
The trip was coming together and the mood in camp seemed untouchable. We sat through one more storm on the tail end of our trip but instead of discussing cracker toppings we could now share stories of what each turn felt like and what the views were like at the top of each line. We laughed at the insane topics of conversation that we delved into and cringed at the smells now coming from each others tents. Our crew was tight as tight could be. That is until our guides showed up on departure night and we had to decide once more who would face the death egg!
Big thanks to Admiral Kukkonen (who made this trip possible) and the wonderful crew I was fortunate to experience this with!
Supported by www.movementskis.com and powered by: www.turquoisetech.com (solar energy solutions)